Emerging from the Yugoslav Wars of the 1990s a stronger and more unified nation, Serbia’s proud old-world culture is mingled with the hopeful aspirations of a generation still celebrating the country’s independence. Whether it’s the grandiose coffee houses, boulevards lined with historical buildings, or the hearty shout of ‘ziveli’ before sipping rakija (plum brandy) – there’s an unmistakeable charm to this Balkan gem. A word of warning before you arrive: come well prepared for a robust three-kiss hello.