Only about 12,000 travellers a year visit Moldova, partly for its unspoiled natural good looks, but also for its wine. The country has some of the best up-and-coming vineyards on the continent, and they’re fuelling a bit of a cultural resurgence: you’ll find plenty of trendy bars, cafes and restaurants in the capital Chişinău. The only signs you’ve stepped into a Soviet time warp are the marble busts of Lenin lining the main boulevards, frowning over his goatee at a region outgrowing its communist roots.