The shadow of conflict in the late 90s has kept Kosovo off the holiday radar, which is a real shame. But go there today and you can feel that shadow lifting. NATO troops may still guard Serbian monasteries, and proper independence is an ongoing struggle, but the headlines now are increasingly good ones: an emerging tourist trade, film festivals in Peja, Pristina’s trendy cafe scene and world-class walking in the Rugova Mountains. Yep, Europe’s youngest member is definitely making up for lost time.